The Regatta Storica had been celebrated in Venice since the thirteenth century, a grand nautical pageant honoring the maritime prowess of the Most Serene Republic. On this crisp, glorious Sunday afternoon, the city seemed to have suspended modern time entirely. The modern vaporetti and motorboats had been banned from the Grand Canal, replaced by hundreds of historic wooden vessels: eight-oared sandoli, elegant caorline, and magnificent ceremonial galleys adorned with gilded…
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