The turning of the seasons brought an exquisite, golden serenity to the high valleys of the Bohemian Karst. By mid-October, the dense spruce forests covering the limestone ridges of Zámek Vranov were interspersed with brilliant, fiery ribbons of amber larch, scarlet maple, and golden birch. The morning air was crisp and invigorating, smelling of sweet woodsmoke, wild mountain honey, and the clean mineral chill of the high granite crags. For…
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