The fortress chapel of San Jerónimo was an ancient sanctuary carved directly out of the mountain bedrock of the Sierra Morena, its vaulted granite ceiling blackened by seven centuries of holy oil lamps and beeswax candles. Outside, the morning breeze off the high plateau was cool and clean, carrying the rich scent of wild thyme, blossoming heather, and blooming mountain jasmine. In the small private courtyard before the chapel entrance,…
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