Spring returned to northern Italy in an explosion of color, warmth, and fragrant rebirth. On a radiant Saturday afternoon in late April, the terraced gardens of *Villa Bellagio* on Lake Como were transformed into an enchanted botanical cathedral. Tens of thousands of white gardenias, fragrant jasmine, and pale blush peonies cascaded from ancient neoclassical stone pergolas, framing the sparkling sapphire waters of the lake below. A fleet of sixty mahogany…
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