The winter solstice arrived in the Engadin with an immaculate, fairy-tale stillness that turned the entire valley into an empire of diamond-bright snow. At two thousand meters elevation, the temperature hovered at fifteen degrees below zero, freezing the turquoise surface of Lake St. Moritz into a mirror of thick, crystal ice beneath three feet of fresh powder. In the village below, the chimneys of ancient timber chalets sent vertical plumes…
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