At dusk on the sixth day, *The Connemara* dropped its heavy iron anchor in the sheltered turquoise waters of Killeany Bay off Inis Mór, the largest of the Aran Islands. Before traveling inland to the mainland stronghold of Castle Blackwood, Liam had insisted on an overnight stop at an isolated coastal stone cottage perched upon the limestone cliffs of the island. The cottage was built of ancient dry-stone blocks two…
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