The heart of Il Capo was transformed on a brilliant Saturday morning. In the bustling historic district where narrow medieval alleys wound beneath laundry-draped stone balconies, the air smelled of roasted espresso, wild fennel, and fresh sea salt blowing in from the harbor. But today, the center of attention was a magnificent three-story neoclassical limestone palazzo that had once stood abandoned and rotting behind rusted iron gates. Over the past…
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