On a radiant Saturday in early June, the ancient capital of Palermo awakened to the glorious pealing of two dozen church bells resounding from the Quattro Canti to the sparkling waters of the Tyrrhenian harbor. Beneath a sky of flawless, sun-drenched sapphire, the historic heart of the city was adorned with millions of white lilies, fragrant orange blossoms, and silver olive garlands. Crowds of Sicilian citizens—thousands of families, fishermen from…
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