The dawn over the Caldera basin arrived with an unprecedented clarity, painting the rugged volcanic ridges in soft strokes of salmon-pink, amber, and radiant gold. The acrid stench of sulfur that had stung the throats of travelers for four centuries was rapidly being swept away by a cool northern wind carrying the crisp scent of alpine pine, melted snow, and damp river loam. Across the wide terraces below Black Crag,…
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